Glossary of Pool & Billiard (Snooker)Terms

Continuous
More commonly known as "straight pool", it was for many years the most popular game in pool and the game on which all World Championships were based.

14.1 is a call-shot game played with all 15 numbered balls and cue ball. Every ball pocketed counts as one point and a game is played to a agreed up score, generally 50, 100, or 150 points.

Traditional straight pool matches are played to 150 points.14.1 is also called "continuous pool" because, after the opening break, play continues until a player reaches the winning score. When only one numbered ball is left on the table, the remaining 14 are racked (with the apex ball missing), and play continues.

7-ball
A fast paced offensive game similar to 9-ball but only using balls numbered 1 through 7. Pocketing the 7-ball wins the game. Under the current pro rules of 7-ball, any missed shot gives your opponent ball-in-hand.

8-ball
Unquestionably the most popular game in all pocket billiards history. 8-ball is often the first game new players learn. It is widely played in pool rooms and is the predominant game outside of pool rooms, such as in bars and taverns.

All fifteen numbered balls are used in a conventional triangle rack. Each player is assigned either the solid balls (1-7) or the striped balls (9-15). The object is to pocket all of your assigned balls and then pocket the 8-ball.

The rules of 8-ball vary drastically. You are cautioned to become familiar with the house rules before entering into a game.

9-ball
9-ball is the current championship game in pocket billiards. Players love the fast pace of the game, and it has proven ideal for television coverage with races to seven fitting well into a one hour time slot.

9-ball is a rotation game so a player must hit the lowest numbered ball first. The object of the game is pocket the 9-ball on any legal shot.

action
a game for money, as in, "Let's go in and see if there is any action." Or when inquiring about a pool room, a player might ask "Do they get much action in there?"

artistic pool
a somewhat new term that applies to trick shooting. Artistic pool players and artistic pool competitions have to do trick shots on a pocket billiard table.

BCA
see Billiard Congress of America.

balance point
the point on the cue, normally about 16i from the butt, where the cue will balance on a finger or fulcrum.

ball-in-hand
being able to place the cue ball anywhere on the table for your next shot.

ball return system
a special feature on some tables that allows pocketed balls drop into a rail where they automatically travel to a box built into the foot of the table.

bank shot
any shot where the object ball strikes a cushion before being pocketed.

bed
the playable surface of a table, usually made of slate.

Also see slate.

Billiard Congress of America
known as the BCA, is the official governing body of pocket billiards played or sanctioned in the U.S. The BCA maintains the complete rules on their BCA Web Site.

billiard shot
a billiard shot is when the cue ball touches a numbered ball on its ways to strike the intended object ball. Note that there is a subtle distinction between caroms, billiards, and combinations.

billiard table
a rectangular table with cushions bounding the playing area, but without pockets A billiard table is typically larger than a pool table, generally measuring 10 feet by 5 feet. Also, billiard tables often have heated beds that cause them to play much faster than pool tables. See also pool table.


break
the first shot of any game that i
billiards
any of the group of games played on a rectangular table with cushions (with or without pockets).s intended to break the racked balls apart. Note that different pool games have specific requirement about how many balls must touch a cushion in order for a break to be legal. Also the penalty for an illegal break varies among games.

bridge
using the front hand to control the shaft of the cue.

Also see mechanical bridge, closed bridge, and open bridge.

bumper
the rubber knob on the bottom of the cue which protects it when rested on the floor. Novices often incorrectly refer to the cushions on a pool table as bumpers.

butt
the large end of a cue stick. Although the term butt is often used to mean the entire lower half of the cue, it actually only refers to the portion of the cue below the wrap (area where the cue is gripped).

carom
a carom shot is when the object ball caroms (touches or kisses) one or more other balls on its way to the pocket. Note that there is a subtle distinction between caroms, billiards, and combinations.

call shot
a rule or type of game which requires the shooter to specify the ball to be pocketed and the pocket into which it will be made, prior to making the shot. Calling your shot generally requires only that call the ball and the pocket. You do not need to call banks, caroms, kisses, or other methods you will use to pocket the ball.

center string
an imaginary line that passes between the centers of the side pockets.

chalk
a caked powder in a small cube which is applied to a the cue tip and causes friction between the cue tip and the cue ball.

cheat the pocket
shooting the object ball to the left or right side of the pocket in order to create an angle for position play. Commonly used on a shot that would otherwise be straight-in.

chin lock
a technique used for maintaining proper alignment when moving into the shooting position. A shot should always be lined up before you move down into your shooting position. If you lock your chin on the vertical plane of the shot, you will naturally be in proper alignment when you are down on the table.

cinching a shot
total focus on the aim point and making the ball, perhaps even not worrying about resulting position.

closed bridge
a specific way of holding the shaft in your hand. In a closed bridge, the cue is held in the circle by touching the tips of your index finger and thumb together.

cloth
the material which covers the bed and cushions of a pool table. The cloth used to cover a pool table is very special and can come in a variety of grades. Along with the general quality of the table itself, the cloth play a very important role in how a particular table plays.

combination
a shot where the cue ball first contacts a ball other than the ball to be pocketed. Note that there is a subtle distinction between caroms, billiards, and combinations.

cripple
an object ball right in front of a pocket that cannot be missed.

crutch
slang for a mechanical bridge.

cue
the stick used for shooting pocket billiards.

cue ball
the white (unnumbered) ball used to shoot at object (numbered) balls.

cue ball in hand see Ball-in-hand.

cueing
using other than a center hit to control the movement of the cue ball.

cushion
the raised cloth-covered rubber bumpers which surround the playing are of a table.

cut shot
any shot where the cue ball contacts the object ball off center and thus drives the object ball in a direction other than the cue balls original path.

cutthroat
a game in pool designed for three players. See "Cut Throat" in the Tips section under "Games & Rules".

dead-ball shot see Stop shot.

dead stroke
similar to playing on autopilot where a player is at peak level and is playing without conscious effort or thought.

diamonds
the dots along the rails which divide them into even increments.

dot see Diamonds.

draw
a method of cue ball control which causes the cue ball to move back toward its point of origin after contacting the object ball.

drop pockets
a pool table with no gulley system so balls remain in the pockets where they were made.

double elimination
a tournament format in which a players are not eliminated until they lose two matches.

duck
an object ball right in front of a pocket that cannot be missed.

eight-ball see 8-ball.

English
to apply English or spin to the cue ball, you hit the cue ball away from the center which puts spin on the cue ball. English mean different things to different people. Some players feel English mean hitting the cue ball anywhere except center-ball, including follow and draw shots, while others feel English means hitting the cue ball either right or left of the center axis.

feather shot
an extremely thin cut shot where the cue ball just barely grazes or touches the object ball.

feel
Feel generally refers to that elusive quality that makes one cue feel special or superior to another. In essence, it is the cumulative effect of all of a cues characteristics, including weight, shaft diameter, balance, grip material, length, etc. It can vary greatly from one player to another. A cue that feels great to one player does not necessarily fell good to another.

ferrule
a piece of protective material (normally white) between the shaft and the cue tip.

flat draw
a low hit on the cue ball (but not as low as normal draw), often used to change the cue ball's angle of deflection off the object ball.

follow
a method of cue ball control which causes the cue ball to move forward after contacting the object ball.

follow-through
the action of stroking through the cue ball after the tip contacts the ball.

foot spot
the spot marked on the foot of the table where the balls are racked. It is centered in the table, two diamonds from the foot rail.

foot string
an imaginary line that passes between the second diamonds on the long rails and through the foot spot.

force draw
also known as a "power draw", means applying very powerful draw on the cue ball thereby causing the maximum amount of draw.

force follow
applying very powerful follow on the cue ball thereby causing the maximum amount of follow.

forearm
on two piece cues, the area of the cue between the joint and the wrap.

foul
a rules violation which causes a player to lose his turn at the table.

fourteen-one continuous see 14.1 Continuous.

frame
a player's turn at the table, also known as an inning.

frozen
when a ball is in firm contact with a cushion or another ball.

granny stick
slang for a mechanical bridge.

grip
holding the cue with your back hand.

gully
a pool table with rails under the pockets which returns all pocketed balls to a common ball box at the foot of the table.

handicap
a scoring method that evens the chances between players of varying skill levels.

head spot
the spot marked on the head of the table which is in the center of the table and two diamonds from the head rail.

head string
an imaginary line that passes between the second diamonds on the long rails and through the head spot.

hit
In addition to referring to how one might hit the cue ball, it also is often used to describe how a cue plays. A player might ask another if a particular cue "hits well?"

hustler
a term used to describe players who take advantage of less skilled players in money games. The ethics of such players are dubious.

inlay
the ornamentation on a cue is often made by inlaying exotic materials into the wood of the butt portion of the cue. Inlays of ebony and ivory are quite common. The value of a cue is often based on the number inlays.

Also see points.

inning
a player's turn a the table. An inning may include several shots, but always ends when the player wins the game, misses a shot, fouls.

jaw
the part of the cushion that is cut to form the opening of the pocket.

joint
the two fittings that are screwed together to connect a two piece cue.

jump shot
intentionally causing the cue ball to become airborne so that it jumps over balls which are obstructing the path to the object ball.

jump the table
accidentally causing the cue ball or any object ball to leave the table. It is normally a foul.

kick
causing the cue ball to contact one or more cushions before striking the object ball.

kill shot see Stop shot.

kiss
generally refers to the object ball light lightly touching another ball on its way to the pocket.

kitchen
the area of the table behind the head string. If you have "ball in hand in the kitchen" you must shoot from behind the head string.

lag
determining who will break. Each player shoots a solid ball (not the cue ball) from behind the head string to the foot of the table. The player whose ball returns closest to the head rail wins the lag and the break. The winner of the lag may elect to pass the break to his opponent.

leave
the arrangement of the balls after a shot.

long string
an imaginary line that runs from the center of the head rail to the center of the foot rail.

masse shot
a shot with extreme English which is applied by holding the cue at a position of 30-90 degrees while applying left or right spin.

mechanical bridge
a notched metal or plastic plate attached to the end of a stick that is used as a bridge in situations where the use of a hand bridge is impossible.

miscue
when the cue strikes the cue ball improperly and slides off.

natural English
the English that is applied to the cue ball which accentuates the natural direction the cue ball would have travelled.

nine-ball
one of many games played in pool. See 9-ball in the chapter on Rules.

object ball
any numbered ball at which you are shooting or is the next ball to be pocketed.

One Pocket
one of many games played in pool. See One Pocket in the chapter on Rules.

open bridge
a specific way of holding the shaft in your hand. An open bridge is created by placing your bridge hand on the table and resting the cue in a crease made by your thumb and index finger.

points
the ornamentation on a cue, between the wrap and the joint, is often made by inlaying exotic materials into the wood so the inlays form points. The value of a cue is often based on the number points.

Also see inlays.

pool table
a rectangular table with cushions bounding the playing area and six pockets. Regulation size is 4 1/2i x 9i.

position play
consistently controlling the movement of the cue ball after it strikes the object ball to gain a subsequent favorable shooting position.

pushout
in 9-ball, the first player to shoot following the break can elect a pushout, which is a kind of free shot. Pocketing the cue ball or causing the cue ball to leave the table are the only fouls. Any balls pocketed are spotted. The incoming player may make a legal shot or hand the table back to the player who pushed out.

rack
the triangular wood or plastic device used to position the balls for the start of the game.

race
the number of games needed to win a match, i.e. a race to 7.

rake
slang for mechanical bridge.

rock
slang for the cue ball.

rotation
one of many games played in pool. See "rotation" in the chapter on Rules.

run
the series of balls pocketed in one inning.

run out
a series of balls pocketed in one inning to win the game.

safety
a defensive move which is designed is to leave your opponent without a shot.

scratch
when the cue ball is pocketed.

set see Race

shaft
the narrow tapered end of a cue stick to which the tip is attached.

sharking
any one of numerous acts which unethical players employ to rattle or upset their opponent. Taking, making noise, and chalking your cue while your opponent is shooting are all considered sharking tactics.

shooting system
a term embraced by the BCA to indicate all of the fundamental components that go into making a shot, i.e. stance, grip, bridge, stroke, etc.

short stop or shortstop
an excellent player but not quite at the same level of the very best. The term is used relative to who the player is compared to, i.e. a local shortstop is one of the better players on the local scene. When speaking of pros, a shortstop is one who often finishes in the money but never wins the tournaments.

shot
an action which begins when the cue tip contacts the cue ball and ends when all balls have stopped moving.

single elimination
a tournament format in which a player is eliminated after the loss of a single match.

slate
the preferred material for the bed of a pool table. The slate of a good pool table is between 1-1.5 inches thick and accounts for the majority of a pool table's weight (often in excess of 800 pounds).

Also see bed.

snookered
when the object ball lies behind another ball which makes it impossible to be struck by the cue with a direct hit.

stance
the way a player stands at the table in the shooting position.

stick see Cue.

stop shot
a shot in which the cue ball stops immediately on impact with the object ball.

stun shot
similar to a stop shot, but used when there is a slight angle on the shot. The cue ball is stunned but still has some lateral movement along the tangent line.

straight pool see 14.1 Continuous

table see Pool table.

tangent line
one of the critical concepts in pool. The tangent line is an imaginary like that is perpendicular to the line the object ball will follow on any shot that is not straight in. If the cue ball strikes the object ball while it is still skidding, i.e. with out any forward or backward roll, it will move along the tangent line after striking the object ball. This single concept is the basis for all position play in pool.

The use of follow and draw allows you to modify the path of the cue ball in relation to the tangent line. Follow will cause the cue ball to travel forward of the tangent line, while draw forces the cue ball to travel a path behind the tangent line.

tip
the end of the cue stick which strikes the cue ball. Normally the tip is made of leather or multiple thin layers of laminated leather. Synthetic materials have also been used for cue tips but were not favorably received by players and are seldom seen anymore.

triangle see rack.

Whitey
slang for the cue ball.

wrap
the part of the cue, near the butt, which is commonly covered with linen or leather, designed for the player's grip.

How to Play Pool Under Pressure

Playing under pressure is very hard to deal with. These pressure games are usually when you are playing for money, a tournament, or on a league, when there is more a stake than just the game. It is all a mental state. Negative thoughts will take over your positive thoughts even when you know you can out shoot this person any day of the week.

You must practice every part of your game to improve. Making your shot, drawing the cue ball, stop shots, and follow are some of the things you must work on to get good at them. Positive thoughts, better known, as confidence is also a part of the game you must work on. You have to find the mental thought that works best for you.

Here are a few things you can do to help you play pool better under pressure.

1- ( Breathing ) If you feel nervous or tense then, check to see if you are holding your breath or you are breathing normal. When you hold your breath or slow down your breathing, it slows down the oxygen to the brain and you do not think clearly. Take a few deep breaths before you shoot.

2- ( Positive Thoughts ) If in the back of your head your thinking, this persons is really good and I am not good enough to beat this person. You are putting a negative thought in your head. Here are a couple of things to try to replace the negative thought with a positive thought. In your mind pretend, you are playing a friend or your spouse. When it is your turn at the table do not look at the person your playing at all and keep your eyes on the table and the balls you are shooting. Put the thought in your mind that you have shot this same shot a hundred times before and made it.

3- ( Distraction ) Sometimes if your opponent knows you are not confident but you have a good chance of beating them, they will try to distract you by talking to you while you are shooting or stand in your line of sight and even move around in hopes you will look at them instead of your shot. This is called, sharking. When it is your turn up at the table keep your head on your game. Do not think of anything else but your game. Focus your eyes on the table and your shot only.

4- In any case, you must find something that works best for you and practice doing the same thing over and over until it becomes a good habit. I hope that this helps to improve your game. Good luck with your up coming matches

BILLIARDS

Billiards is a game that most people think, is it played on a seven-foot table with fifteen balls, when in fact, the game of billiards has no pockets and it is played with three balls and on a ten-foot table. The object of the game of billiards is to hit two balls with your cue ball every time you shoot and if successful, then you score one point. There is one cushion billiards and two-cushion billiards and three-cushion billiards. Most of your greatest pool shooters practice billiards for many hours. Billiards teaches you English. Billiards also teaches you how to get your cue ball from one place on the table to another. Billiards teaches you how the cue ball reacts with English and with out English. Not many of the pool halls in this area have a Billiard Table, but if you are lucky, enough that your pool hall has a Billiard table, then take the time to watch people who play. You will not see people banging balls around in this game, for it is a game of skill and thinking. Watch a few games and you will definitely see a greater knowledge of cue ball control.

Dominant Eye

What the hell is wrong with me? How did I miss that shot? Why do I always have a problem cutting a ball to the right and not the left? What's wrong with my eyes? Does any of the above sound familiar? Has any on ever told you that you put English on the ball and you thought you were shooting center? I'm sure this happens a lot in shooting pool, because if your dominant eye isn't over the stick then your eyes tell your mind that you are shooting center ball hit. Did you ever hear the saying that your eyes are playing tricks on you? Which eye is your dominant eye? There is a test you can do one your self to find out which is your dominant eye and once you find out which eye is your dominant eye then keep that eye over your stick and you will be surprised how much your game will improve. First put your arm out in front of you with your thumb in the air and your fingers bent in towards your palm. Now pick an object on the wall in front of you about 15 feet away and try to cover the object with you thumb and keep both eyes open. You should see two thumbs. Now close the right eye and then the left eye. You should have noticed that your thumb covered the object with one eye and it moves with the other eye. Once you find out which eye is your dominant eye then practice making shots making sure this eye is over the stick. It might feel weird at first, but if you persist then you will start feeling comfortable with this technique. Also, keep in mind, if you are right handed and left eye dominant or vise versa, then this technique will be some what more difficult to catch on to. I am right handed and left eye dominant, so when I approach my shot I walk into my shot with my left eye heading towards the object ball into the pocket. Another test for which eye is dominant is to, place a piece of chalk on a diamond and put you cue ball at the other end of the table at the matching diamond and a comfortable distance away from the rail. Now shoot the cue ball at the chalk at lag speeds up the table and don't move your stick after you shoot. See if your cue ball comes back to your tip or if it drifts left or right after you shoot. If it drifts then you are applying English, if it doesn't drift then you are shooting center cue ball. Try it a few times; keep shooting at the chalk. Now move the chalk to another diamond and see if you are persistent with the center cue ball hit. Now try cutting a ball into a corner pocket. If the ball goes in the pocket and seams to circle out of the pocket, then you are applying English on the shot. Buddy Hall wrote a great article on this in Billiards Digest in June 2001. So watch that dominant eye, for it can be your friend or the reason you lost the game. Good shooting

Pool Shooting Tips for Beginners

Practice each of the following steps as individual steps. Once you master each step, you will be on your way to playing pool

The Bridge:
Place your bridge hand flat on the pool table. Pull your fingers back towards your palm keeping your fingertips and wrist flat on the table. Now pull your thumb up higher then your index finger. Place the cue stick on the inside of your thumb pulling the stick back and forth with a gentle motion. Always remember that you need a steady bridge that will not wobble. Think of it like driving. You would not drive your car across a bridge that moves, so you should not shoot a shot with an un-steady bridge. In addition, you will not be able to use this same bridge for every shot, but the key idea to remember is to keep a steady bridge that will not move.

The Hold:
Place the cue ball at a comfortable place on the table and ready to shoot a shot. Place the stick on your bridge hand and place your other hand on the back of the stick. Grip the butt of the stick gently, make sure your wrist is straight and not turned inward and let the butt rest on your fingertips. Pull the stick to your side so it gently touches your side and take a few strokes. Now look at your backhand, it must be at a ninety-degree angle. Think of the ninety-degree angle as the letter L, because you Love to shoot pool. As you stroke the stick, lock your shoulder in place and only swing at the elbow. If your elbow is not at a ninety-degree angle, then move your backhand either back or forth on the butt until it is. This is very important because if you do not have a ninety-degree angle when you shoot the shot then it will throw your shoulder out and you will throw your shot. Always look back and make sure.

The Glide:
Put your stick on your good bridge and make sure your back arm is at ninety-degree angle. Pull your stick close toward your side and stroke the stick back and forth. Now watch your cue tip as you stroke, making sure that your tip is not moving left or right. If it does move left or right, check your ninety-degree angle or tighten your shoulder to achieve a straight- forward motion on the cue tip. Practice this technique using slow strokes until you get a good forward motion. Then practice it using faster strokes. Remember to swing at the elbow only.

Dominant eye:
Before you can start making shots accurately, you have to find out which eye is your dominant eye. This is very important because if your dominant eye is not over the stick then you will aim off center of the cue ball when your eyes and mind tell you that you are shooting center. First, put your arm out in front of you with your thumb in the air and your fingers bent in towards your palm. Now pick an object on the wall in front of you about 15 feet away and try to cover the object with your thumb and keep both eyes open. You should see two thumbs. Now close the right eye and then the left eye. You should have noticed that your thumb covered the object with one eye and it moves with the other eye. Once you find out which eye is your dominant eye then practice making shots making sure this eye is over the stick. It might feel weird at first, but if you persist then you will start feeling comfortable with this technique. Also, keep in mind, if you are right handed and left eye dominant or vise versa, then this technique will be some -what more difficult to catch on to.

The Stance:
First, what side is your bridge hand? OK, it is the left hand. Then the left leg should be closest to the table, or vise versa for right hand. Step into your shot with your bridge side leg heading towards the object ball into the pocket and the other leg in back. Now move your feet a hips width apart and bend your knees slightly. You should have one foot in front of the other and by keeping your legs, a hips width apart you will not wobble back and forth. This is just as important as a good steady bridge, for if your stance moves then your stick will move and you will not be able to hit the cue ball where you want to hit it. Now you will not be able to do this on all shots because you might have to reach for certain shots, but remember if your body sways then get up and re-adjust your stance until you feel comfortable with out swaying.

The Follow through:
With the exception of certain shots, the most important thing to remember is to push your stick straight through the cue ball and keep your stick out in front of you until you hear the ball hit or until you pocket the ball. Think of your stick as an arrow and push through the cue ball to the target. If you can master this technique then you will avoid the very hard to break habit of jumping up on your shots and you will make more shots and look professional too.

How to Choose a Pool Cue Stick Tip

Putting the right tip on your cue, that does what you want it to do, is just as important as buying a cue stick that looks and fells just right for you only. There are so many different tips out there that it would take to long to mention them all. The following will explain what they are made of, how they are made, and the different affects they will produce.
Types of Materials How they are made
Leather cowhide One Piece
Water buffalo hide One Piece or Layered
Layered Many layers glued together
Components Components compressed into one piece

Grades Affects Amount of English you can apply
Hard Gives you a firm hit Use a little to average
Medium Gives you a medium hit Use a little to above average
Soft Gives you a hard hit Use a little to Extreme

I hope this will help you in making a decision on what tip will work best for you.

Video Tape Yourself Shooting Pool

Have you ever watched a pool match between the pro's with, Allison Fisher - The Duchess of Doom, Jeanette Lee - The Black widow, Ewa Laurance - The Striking Viking, Helena Thornfeldt - The Sledgehammer or Allen Hopkins on ESPN or at Valley Forge Super Billiard Expo in PA?

We watch their deadly shot making and their perfect position but do you watch what their doing with their bodies as they prepare for and execute each shot? I strongly suggest that you video tape some matches and play them back. Watch how they get their bodies in line for each shot and how they stand. Watch what parts of their body move and what parts don't move. You will learn a lot.

Now tape three or four games of you playing pool. Are you getting in line with each shot? Are you standing right? What body parts move and don't move as you execute your shots. Do you jump up on hard shots? When you think you have corrected any of these problems you might have had, than video tape yourself again and again until you think you have corrected them all. Do this every few months to keep yourself disciplined. Your mind will develop very good habits every time you shoot.

Just like the pro's do.

Learn How to Shoot Pool Billiards and Snooker Using The Tip Method

The size of each regulation billiard ball including the cue ball is, 2 ¼ inches round. The pockets on any pool table very in width but, they are between 4 ½ to 5 inches wide. You can fit two balls in any pocket side by side. I will show you that this is true with these pictures.

Therefore, with my new idea of using the size of your cue tip as a measurement, you can be off ½ a tip to the left or ½ tip to the right of where you are aiming and still pocket your object ball.

Look at diagram # 3. The black circle on the one ball is where you need to hit this ball to make it go straight in the center of the side pocket. Even if your aim is off a little bit, you can still make the shot. Look at the black circle in diagram # 4. This is called hitting the ball ½ tip off to the left of where I wanted to hit the ball, but it will still go in the pocket.

Straight in shots

Straight in shots seam to give some people a problem. Remember when shooting high on the cue ball it will follow the object into the pocket. Shooting low will stop or reverse cue ball. Shooting center is good only if the object ball is close to the cue ball, otherwise shooting center at a distance could also cause the cue ball to drift forward and scratch. Again speed has a lot to do with the shot. Set up the same straight in shot and shoot in using the various speeds and techniques, then you will be able to determine how to shoot different straight in shots.
Coming off the edge of the object ball

When the cue ball hits the edge of an object ball, the cue ball drifts dramatically. Remember the tangent and this will show you the direction the cue ball will travel, but it will take off and roll. One way to stop the roll is to use extreme reverse English. Another thing to remember is when you have a small cut on a long shot on the short rail, using high English makes the cue ball die. So in this type of shot use low English so the cue ball will come back up table.
Cue ball off the rail shots

When your opponent’s ball is blocking you from shooting at your ball and their ball is not real close to your ball on or near the rail, try coming off the rail using center English to make your ball. One way to judge this is to determine where you would place the cue ball on that rail and see where you need to hit the object ball, this should give you a good idea where to aim the cue ball to come off the rail. If you are coming off the rail and cutting the ball to the right the use center left English and visa versa. Remember using center left or right English off the rail the English will take quick or short and using High left or right English off the rail the English will go long or wide.
Shaping your Tip

Just as important chalk is to you tip, shaping your tip is just as important. Applying English with a mushroomed flat tip will not take very well and your chance of miscuing is greater. There are several different types of tip shapers out there and some give you the shape of a nickel and some give you the shape of a dime. This means that if you place a nickel or dime behind the top of you tip it will be shaped like that. Some tip shapers come with a grove to check if your tip needs shaped. When you use the tip checker you place it over the top of your tip and it should fit the shape of the tip, if it doesn’t then your tip needs shaped. In addition, if your tip is shaped properly and you seam to be miscuing a lot, then you might have a layered tip and the glue is actually causing the miscue, so try reshaping your tip until you get past the thin layer of glue.

Defense Play

Defense playing is just as important in pool and billiards as making your shots. First you have to analyze yourself and if you are shooting well or if your off. Then you have to analyze your opponent. Whether you are shooting a strong or weak player and you are having an off night then go into defense mode. Defense mode means to try to leave your opponent a long hard shot. Try to hide the cue ball. Try tying up a pocket he can make his ball in. Try to leave your ball close to the pocket. If you opponent has a ball hanging near a pocket try to hit your ball into his ball and either make his ball or hit it away from the pocket it is hanging in and leave you ball near the pocket. You can also hit your ball into the rail near your opponents ball and knock his ball away and leave your ball near the pocket. Another good idea is to not shoot at your balls that are hanging in or near the pockets, this would be a good time to shoot at a cluster or shoot at one of your balls that are in a bad spot, but don’t break up your opponents. Try to get your balls out where they are easer for you to shoot at for your next turn. Let’s say you have a ball on the rail and your opponent’s ball is on the same rail behind yours, then shoot at other shots and let your opponent worry about getting his ball out.

Helpful Hints for Pool, Billiards and Snooker

The Tangent line

The tangent line is the direction the cue ball takes after contacting the object ball. By knowing the tangent line you can improve you’re positioning on the cue ball for the next shot and avoid scratches. A ghost ball is where you imagine your cue ball to be at the moment it contacts the object ball. The best ways to determine the tangent line is to imagine a cross just like this ( + ). Draw a strait line through the center of the ghost ball and through the center of the object ball to the center of the pocket. Draw another line through the first line in the shape of a cross through the center of the ghost ball, and to the rail. This is the path your cue ball will go using center English after contacting the object ball. Only high or low English will change the tangent line. I recommend setting up a shot and practice the same shot using various English and speed, then in no time you will be able to under stand which English to use to get position on the cue ball. For beginners, I recommend setting up the same shot just using center English until you get a better idea of the tangent line.
Bank Shots

When making a bank shot you want the Object ball to come off the rail at the same angle that it goes into the rail. The easiest way to think about this is to create a perfect V. Just like writing the letter V, you start at the top of the letter on the left side and come down on an angle to a point then go back up the right side to finish the letter V. Let’s say when you bank a ball it usually comes close but never seams to go in the pocket, or some times you can’t create a perfect V. Then try using English to help create the perfect V, but only use English if you need to. For example, when banking a ball to the left, try using a little right English on the cue ball. When banking a ball to the right, try using a little left English on the cue ball. It all depends on how much you need to throw the object ball, but use the opposite English that you want to bank the ball. Also, speed has a lot to do with banking the ball using High English, use a soft to a light medium hit works best. Using a little High English throws the ball to create a perfect V. Note: if the object ball is on the rail or very close to the rail then the High English will usually result in a double hit on the cue ball, so try using Low English to get the cue ball out of the way, but watch the tangent line because the low could result in a scratch. Another good idea is to find the center point between the object ball and the pocket. This can easily be done by laying the tip of your stick on the table or rail between the object ball and the pocket to judge where the center point is, and that is the point that you want your object ball to hit. If you have to hit the rail first then find the center point on the rail between the cue ball and the object ball.

Now that you know using the opposite (reverse) English can help create a perfect V, you can also use the same English to the same side you are banking the ball. For example, if you have a bank shot to the right that you have a narrow V, try using right English, or left English if you are banking it to the left. Remember that Right English on the cue ball put left English on the object ball and Left English on the cue ball puts right English on the Object ball. Think of using English like a hand on a clock. If you use you finger to spin the hand of the clock from left to right (Clock wise), then you are using Left English and spinning the cue ball to the right. If you use your finger to spin the hand on the clock from right to left (counter clock wise) the you are putting right on the cue ball and spinning to the left. Also remember if you are using right English on the cue ball it is spinning to the left, but it throws the object ball to the right and visa versa.

Now that you know what way the cue ball is spinning depending on what English you use, you can also use extreme English to bank a wide V shot. Using extreme left English with a soft hit will throw the object ball long and to the right, and using extreme right English with a soft hit will throw the object ball long and to the left. You should experiment with this type of a shot. I like using extreme center English for this shot, but depending what type of a shooter you are, extreme High English might work better for you. Try using this practice shot. Place the object ball about 8 to 9 inches close to the corner pocket and the cue across the table about 4 to 5 inches off the short rail across from the object ball. Now use extreme left English with a soft hit and try banking it in the opposite right corner pocket. Extreme high English throws the object ball long and extreme center English throws the object not as long. Again depending on how hard you hit the cue ball will make a difference in the throw of the object ball. Experiment using various speeds and in no time you will get the hang of it. Likewise to kick at a ball you can hit the cue ball to the rail and use English to throw the cue ball where you need it to go. High right or left, center right or left and speed makes the cue ball throw at different angles, so experiment using different English until you get the feel of how much to use and how hard to hit the cue ball. Throwing the object ball and rail shots

Remember that using left English on the cue ball will throw the object ball to the right and visa versa. On some cut shots you can use helping English in which the cue ball rolls off the object ball and reduces the friction between the balls hitting each other. For example: cutting a ball to the left and using a little right English is called helping English. In addition, it is possible to cut a ball that is more a little more than a 90 degree (90 degrees is like the letter L) angle by thinning the ball and using right or left English. For example: your cue ball is down table close to the right rail and your object ball is up table, but to the left of the cue ball and you want to cut the object into the right pocket. Thin the object ball with a soft hit and use right English to throw the ball to the left. Just remember that right English throws the object ball to the left and visa versa.

A lot of players have difficulty with rail shots, but if you pretend the rail isn’t there you will be surprised that rail shots are not that hard to make. Like wise on rail shots if the object is not on the rail you can use helping English and thin the object ball. To see which way to throw the object ball that is a little off the rail, look at the object ball and see where it will go by thinning the ball, and then decide if you need to throw it to the right or to the left to go into the pocket. For example: if the object ball is 3 inches off the rail and you thin the ball it will go straight across the table, but you need to throw the ball to the right put a little high left (about 1/2 tip) on the cue ball with a soft hit and it will throw the ball to the right into the pocket Now what if the object ball is on the rail? Again try to pretend the rail isn’t there. Here is another technique that can help you make a frozen ball on the rail shot. If you are cutting a ball on the rail to the right instead of thinning the edge of the object ball, try shooting a little before the ball use center right English about 1 tip and with a firm hit. This will cause the cue ball to sink into the rail and when it comes off the rail spinning to the right. This shot does take practice, but master it and your game will definitely improve. Just remember which ever way you are cutting an object ball on the rail shot use the same center English and a firm hit. The neatest thing about this shot is after hitting the object ball using this technique, the cue ball will come off the rail and then off the object ball with a unique spin off the tangent line of the object ball.

The Type of Game

International or "English" snooker is the most widely played form of snooker around the world. It is generally played on 6ft x12ft English billiard tables, with cushions that are more narrow than on pocket billiard tables and which curve smoothly into the pocket openings.

5ft x 10ft and snooker tables of even smaller playing dimensions may be used for the game.

On a 6ft x 12ft snooker (English billiard) table the playing area within the cushion faces shall measure 11ft 8.5in x 5ft 10in with a tolerance on both dimensions of +/-0.5in.

The height of the table is measured from the floor to the top of the cushion rail, and the height shall measure 34in with an allowable variance of +/-0.5in.

Players: 2

Balls Used: Set of Snooker balls: fifteen object balls that are not numbered and are solid red (called reds), six object balls of other colors that are not numbered (called colors) and a cue ball (called the white ball).

Point values for object balls: red-1, yellow-2, green-3, brown-4, blue-5, pink-6, black-7.

In International Snooker the balls used are 2-1/16in diameter.

The Rack: Play begins with the balls placed as in the diagram above. The pink is spotted on the Pyramid Spot. The apex ball of the triangle of reds is racked as close as possible to the pink without touching it.

Baulk-line and Baulk: A straight line drawn 29" from the face of the bottom cushion and parallel to it is called the Baulk-line and the intervening space termed the Baulk.

The Half Circle: The Half Circle is a semi-circle described in Baulk with its center at the middle of the Baulk-line and with a radius of 11.5in. When the striker has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle he may place the base of the cue ball anywhere on the line or within the Half Circle, and may use his hand or any part of his cue (including the
tip) to position the cue ball--as long as it is judged he is not attempting to play a stroke.

Object of the Game: To score a greater number of points than opponent.

Scoring: Points are scored in two ways: players are awarded points for fouls by the opponent (see Penalties For Fouls below), and by legally potting reds or colors. Each legally potted red ball has a point value of one; each legally potted color ball has a point value as indicated (Balls Used above). A frame ends when all balls have been potted, following the Rules of Play; if, however, only the black (7) ball is left on the table, the frame ends with the first score or foul.

If the players' scores are equal after that scoring, the black is spotted on its original position and the players lag or draw lots for the choice of playing at, or assigning opponent to play at, the black ball with the cue ball in hand within the Half Circle, first score or foul then ends the frame.

Opening Break: Players lag or draw lots for choice of break in the opening frame. In a match format the players alternate the break in subsequent frames. Starting player has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle. He must cause the cue ball to contact a red ball. It is not necessary to send a ball to a rail or into a pocket. Failure to meet this requirement is a foul (see Penalties For Fouls)

A foul is scored and - with all fouls - the incoming player has a choice of (1) accepting the table and becoming the striker, or (2) requiring the offender to break again.

Rules of Play

1. A legally potted ball entitles the striker to continue at the table until he fails to legally pot a ball.

2. On all shots, the striker must comply with the appropriate requirements of Rules of Play 5 and 6. It is not necessary to cause the cue ball or an object ball to contact a cushion or drop in a pocket after the cue ball has contacted a legal object ball (ball on). Failure to contact a legal object ball first is a foul.

3. As long as reds are on the table, the incoming striker (player taking his first stroke of an inning) always has a red as his legal object ball (ball on).

4. Any red balls potted on a legal shot are legally potted balls; the striker need not call any particular red ball(s), pocket(s) or details of how the pot will be played.

5. When the striker has a red ball as his "ball on" (legal object ball), he must cause the cue ball's first contact to be with a red ball. Failure to do so is a foul (See Penalties For Fouls)

6. After the striker has scored a red ball initially, his next legal object is a color, and as long as reds remain on the table he must alternate his play between reds and colors (though within each group he may play a ball of his choice). When reds remain on the table and a color is his object, the striker must (a) designate prior to stroking
which color ball is his object (that specific color is then his "ball on"), and (b) cause the cue ball's first contact with a ball to be with that colored ball. If the striker fails to meet these requirements, it is a foul (See Penalties For Fouls).

7. If the striker's ball on is a red, and he pots a color, it is a foul.

8. If the striker's ball on is a color, and he pots any other ball, it is a foul.

9. Jump shots are illegal in International Snooker. It is a foul if the striker intentionally causes the cue ball to jump (rise from the bed of the table) by any means, if the jump is an effort to clear an obstructing ball.

10. While reds remain on the table, each potted color is spotted prior to the next stroke (see Spotting Balls below for spotting rules). After a color has been spotted, if the striker plays while that ball is incorrectly spotted (and opponent or referee calls it before two such plays have been taken), the shot taken is a foul. If the striker plays
two strokes after such error without its being announced by opponent or referee, he is free of penalty and continues playing and scoring normally as though the spotting error simply had not occurred. The striker is responsible for ensuring that all balls are correctly spotted before striking. If the striker plays while a ball(s) that should be on
the table is not a foul may be awarded whenever the foul is discovered during the striker's inning. Any scoring prior to the discovery of the foul will count.

11. When no reds remain on the table, striker's balls on become the colors, in ascending numerical order (2,3,4,5,6,7). These legally potted colors are not spotted after each is potted; they remain off the table.
(The black (7) ball is an exception in the case of a tie score; see Scoring.)

Illegally Potted Ball: Reds illegally potted are not spotted; they remain off the table. Colors illegally potted are spotted. (See Spotting Balls)

Object Balls Jumped off the Table: Reds jumped off the table are not spotted and the striker has committed a foul. Colors jumped off the table are spotted and the striker has committed a foul. (See Penalties For Fouls)

Spotting Balls: Reds are never spotted. Colors to be spotted are placed as at the start of the game. If a color's spot is occupied (to mean that to spot it would make it touch a ball), it is placed on the spot of the highest value color that is unoccupied. If all spots are occupied, the color is spotted as close as possible to its original spot on a straight line between its spot and the nearest point on the top (foot) cushion.

Cue Ball after Jumping off the Table: Incoming player has cue ball in hand within the Half Circle. When cue ball is in hand within the Half Circle (except the opening break), there is no restriction (based on position of reds or colors) as to what balls may be played; striker may play at any ball on regardless of where it is on the table.

Touching a Ball: While balls are in play it is a foul if the striker touches any object ball or if the striker touches the cue ball with anything other than the tip during a legal stroke.

Snookered: The cue ball is snookered when a direct stroke in a straight line to any part of every ball on is obstructed by a ball or balls not on. If there is any one ball that is not so obstructed, the cue ball is not snookered. If in-hand within the Half Circle, the cue ball is snookered only if obstructed from all positions on or within the Half
Circle. If the cue ball is obstructed by more than one ball, the one nearest to the cue ball is the effective snookering ball.

Angled: The cue ball is angled when a direct stroke in a straight line to any part of every ball on is obstructed by a corner of the cushion. If there is any one ball on that is not so obstructed, the cue ball is not angled. If angled after a foul the referee or player will state "Angled Ball", and the striker has the choice to either (1) play from that position or (2) play from in hand within the Half Circle.

Occupied: A spot is said to be occupied if a ball cannot be placed on it without its touching another ball.

Touching Ball: If the cue ball is touching another ball which is, or can be, on, the referee or player shall state "Touching Ball." Thereafter the striker must play away from it or it is a push stroke (foul). No penalty is incurred for thus playing away if (1) the ball is not on; the ball is on and the striker nominates such ball; or (3) the ball is on
and the striker nominates, and first hits, another ball. [If the referee considers that a touching ball has moved through an agency other than the player, it is not a foul.]

Push Stroke: A push stroke is a foul and is made when the tip of the cue remains in contact with the cue ball (1) when the cue ball makes contact with the object ball, or (2) after the cue ball has commenced its forward motion. Provided that where the cue ball and an object ball are almost touching, it shall be deemed a legal stroke if the cue ball hits the finest possible edge of the object ball.

Miss: The striker shall to the best of his ability endeavor to hit the ball on. If the referee considers the rule infringed he shall call foul and a "miss." The incoming player (1) may play the ball(s) as they lie, or (2) may request that the ball(s) be returned to the original position and have the offending player play the stroke again. Note: if the ball
on cannot possibly be hit, the striker is judged to be attempting to hit the ball on.

Free Ball: After a foul, if the cue ball is snookered, the referee or player shall state "Free Ball." If the non-offending layer takes the next stroke he may nominate any ball as on. For this stroke, such ball shall be regarded as, and acquire the value of, the ball on. It is a foul should the cue ball fail to first hit, or - except when only the pink and black remain on the table - be snookered by, the free ball. If the "free ball" is potted, is is spotted, and the value of the ball on is scored. if the ball on is potted it is scored. If both the "free ball" and the ball on are potted, only the value of the ball on is scored.

Fouls

If a foul is committed:

1. the player who committed the foul incurs the penalty prescribed (which is added to the opponent's score), and has to play again if requested by the next player. Once such a request has been made it cannot be withdrawn.

2. should more than one foul be committed in the same stroke the highest value penalty shall be incurred.

3. any ball improperly spotted shall remain where positioned, except that if off the table it shall be correctly spotted.

Penalties for Fouls

The following are fouls and incur a penalty of four points or the higher one prescribed:
1. value of the ball on - by striking:

a) when the balls are still moving from the previous shot.

b) the cue ball more than once (double hit).

c) without at least one foot on the floor.

d) out of turn.

e) improperly from in hand within the Half Circle.

by causing:

f) the cue ball to miss all object balls.

g) the cue ball to enter a pocket.

h) a snooker with free ball.

i) a jump shot.


2. value of the ball on or ball concerned - by causing:

a) a ball not on to enter a pocket. b) the cue ball to first hit a ball not on. c) a push stroke. d) by striking with a ball not correctly spotted.

e) by touching a ball with other than the tip of the cue. f) by forcing a ball off the table.

3. value of the ball on or higher value of the two balls by causing the cue ball to hit simultaneously two balls other than two reds or a "free ball" and the ball on.

4. penalty of seven points is incurred if - the striker

a) after potting a red commits a foul before nominating a color.

b) uses a ball off the table for any purpose.

c) plays at reds in successive strokes.

d) uses as the cue ball any ball other than the white one.

The objective:

To score a greater number of points than the opponent.

The rules:
# Each ball has a point value.
# You have to sink the balls in ascending order, starting from the red balls. As long as reds are on the table they are the object ball.
# After sinking one red ball you can pick any colored ball to sink, you must sink that specific ball.
# If you made a foul on any ball, the points of the ball are added to the opponent's score.

To score a greater number of points than your opponent.

Behaviour

In much the same way as golf, snooker demands high standards of etiquette and behaviour from all players, at all levels, at all times. This applies in the same way to a local league match as it does to a big game in a professional tournament.

Matchplay

1. Shake hands with an opponent at the start and end of a match
2. Shake hands with the referee at the start and end of a match
3. Declare all your own fouls, at all times
4. Do not stand in line of an opponents shot
5. Do not volunteer remarks about an opponents luck whilst a match is in progress
6. Do not complain about playing conditions whilst a match is in progress
7. Do not strike matches or lighters, and try to avoid coughing whilst your opponent is at the table
8. Do not concede a frame or match when you have missed a shot or whilst your opponent is still at the table. Wait for your opponent to finish their visit before conceding.
9. Do not argue with the referee or your opponent.

Standards of behaviour are also just as important when practising in the snooker centre.

Balls Used

Set of Snooker balls: three / six / ten / fifteen unnumbered solid red object balls (called reds), six unnumbered object balls of different colors (called colors) and the cue ball (called the white ball). Each object ball has a different point value: red-1, yellow-2, green-3, brown-4, blue-5, pink-6, black-7

Scoring

Points are scored in two ways:

1. By legally potting reds or colors, according to the point value of the potted object ball. (see Balls Used above)
2.1. By fouls committed by the opponent (see Penalties For Fouls below).

Opening Break

The first player who breaks is chosen randomly. The starting player gets the cue ball in hand within the Half Circle. He must cause the cue ball to contact a red ball.(It is not necessary to send a ball to a rail or into a pocket). Failure to contact a red ball is a foul (see Penalties For Fouls), and the incoming player has a choice of :
1) accepting the table and becoming the striker.
2) requiring the opponent to become the striker.

HOW TO PLAY AND WIN SNOOKER

Lesson #1
The Basics

You want to play the great game of snooker, but don't know how. It is easier than you think! Well, to get started that is, but how good you become relies on many things. Talent is of course a major ingredient to being good at snooker, however you can still play a good game if you practice hard and are disciplined. Over the next months I will try to help with tips on how to improve your game, from the early stages through to the advanced. Also if any of you out there have questions on playing the game let me know and I will try to help.

Ok, I will assume you have a very basic knowledge in the basic principles of play. The first thing I notice about players who are not very good at snooker is their balance. Balance is a key in any sport, and snooker is no exception. Good balance is obtained by having a good stance.

Now, at this point it is worth mentioning that there have been a few top players who have had a dreadfull stance and still reached the top. The most notorious being of course Alex Higgins. Alex probably had the worst stance in the game, but he could do things on the table which most players can only dream of. But let's not get carried away. Alex and a few other players in the pro game are unusual, and if you really have tried to play in an orthodox way, then and only then should you try to adjust to what suits you. I remember when I used to play snooker every day, I could never keep off of the table. I was lucky that I could arrange my work to enable me to play at least for one hour. I remember when I used to try to change my stance I used to think that if it was a bit uncomfortable then it was not for me. Then I read a book by Steve Davis, and he said that if it felt uncomfortable it did not mean it would not work. He was right I found. Even though it felt wrong, if I carried on, eventually it felt right. Mind you, it did not always improve my game!

To find your balance is the first thing you must do if you want to play snooker. If you are solid on the shot then you will be able to pot with more consistency. The next time snooker is on the TV, watch where the players position their feet. See how the front leg is bent and the back leg is kept straight. This gives a strong base from which to gain that all important balance. The position of the feet is also vital. If your feet are out of line then your whole body will be. For this first part, try to concentrate on the way you stand. Stay down on the shot after you hit the cue ball, until the object ball is sunk (hopefully!). Make a mental note each time you go down on a shot and each time you stand up, of key positions of feet and legs. As an example, if you were potting the blue off of its spot and you were dead in line, stand up and face the way your feet are pointing, and you should be facing roughly 45 degrees away from the object ball. If you follow this as a rough guide then, assuming you are right handed, your left foot should be pointing in the direction of the object ball, but angled slightly outwards, and your right foot should be angled roughly toward the black spot. Over the next few weeks practice how you stand. Do not worry if your game does not improve straight away.

If you play snooker on a regular basis and are getting frustrated because your game never seems to improve, then I will try to help. If you are consistently making breaks of over 30-40 then you are quite a good player. This is a standard which is enjoyable and would probably class you as a good club player. However, there is no reason why you cannot improve your breaks. My biggest problem when I played snooker was that I would be on a big break and then I would miss the most simple ball. This was caused by me concentrating on the harder shots, but taking the easy ones for granted. Another reason why I missed was because I tried too hard for position and forgot the pot! These problems are very common in club and pro players too. There are things you can do to improve.

Firstly, when you are playing for position, make up your mind how you are going to get on the next ball and position the tip of the cue accordingly. The last thing you should be thinking about before you strike the cue ball is the pot. In fact, all of your efforts should be on making the ball go down, because if your technique is good then your tip should have struck the cue ball where you decided and the cue ball should go roughly where you wanted. If this is not the case then you have not struck the cue ball where you intended. This means you probably moved on the shot or your stance was wrong, or both. In any case, if the object ball is sunk and you are out of position, you can at least play safe! A good safety shot is sometimes better than a pot. Over the next few weeks concentrate on the pot more than your position. If you practice on your own try this exercise out:

Place all of the colours on their spots, then try to clear them. But each time you pot one, bring it straight back up. When you have sunk the black, play for position on the yellow and start all over again. See how many times you can pot the colours.

My record was three times and I missed the black on my fourth, however the pro Mark King managed eleven!

I used to hang around the players practice room, and I had the pleasure of watching Alain Robidoux, Jim Wych and Cliff Thorburn challenging other players by setting trick shots for them. Here is one of my favourites.

Place a red about four inches out from each pocket then invite a friend to try and pot all of the balls without missing, however you tell him which ball to pot each time he plays.

This is an exercise which looks so easy but believe me it is not and you can earn a lot of money from it! The key is the centres. If you don't get the white back in to the centre of the table then it is very hard. Try it and see how you get on.


Lesson #2
Striking the Ball

Hi there!

Well, judging by the amount of mail I have recieved some of you obviously enjoyed my first lesson. Unfortunately I am not set up yet to publish graphics but I am working on it. My first lesson worked mainly on the stance. This time I would like to talk about striking the ball. It is very important to hit the ball straight, but it is also equally important to time the ball. This is to say that you strike the ball at the time you are supposed to. To achieve good timing is to strike the ball sweetly. Many shots can be missed just because your cue action is all out of time.

The next time you go to play start by placing the white on the brown spot and fire it in line down the table across the spots, hitting the back cushion, and try to get it to return and hit your cue tip. This exercise is of course reliant on a good table. However, you must strike the ball at a reasonable pace to stop the ball turning on the nap. The idea of this exercise is to make sure that you are hitting the ball dead centre. If you reach a good rythym and are more successfull than not, stop after ten minutes. Now do the same exercise again, but this time try to imagine that the white is not there. In other words forget that you are striking the white - just cue through the ball. When the ball has left the cue, see how far your cue extends past where the white started its journey. You should be looking for a minimum of about 6 Inches. If you exceed this, it is ok. Using this follow through technique is the way to hit the ball cleanly. Imagine you are trying to push your cue down a long thin pipe and your room for error is small, then use your cue like a gun, line it up and fire.

Some players often use a mark in the grain to give them a guide, but I prefer to follow my eye line right through to the tip. In coming lessons I will be giving tips on how to screw back with real power, but this guide will help in that department also. You do not have to hit a ball hard to screw back a long way if you time it well. Now when you have practiced for a while, place the blue on its spot and the white in line with it diagonally so it is a dead straight pot. Be about two feet behind it. Now line up the shot as normal, but this time when you strike the ball, imagine the white is not there. Cue through the ball with a nice extension on the follow through. Try to stay on the shot until the blue is sunk. Get used to staying on the shot as this will help with your stance.
For The More Advanced

The exercise above, although written for beginners, also applies to the more advanced players. However, you can try to be more adventurous. When you line up the blue on its spot as detailed above, try screwing back the white into the opposite pocket and then try following through in to the same pocket. Keep repeating this and moving the white away from the blue. In the end you have to try and pot the blue off of its spot from the jaws of the pocket and get the white to follow through and go in off. If you can perform this successfully I believe you would have no problem with your cueing. Do not bother trying to screw back and go in off from the jaw!

As stated above it is a good idea to stay on the shot and watch the object ball drop, even the more advanced players often jump up on the shot and ruin their cue action. One small tip for the more advanced player is when you are playing from tight on the cushion there is a tendency to cue down on the ball. Try not to do this too much. Try to lower your cue arm so that you strike along the ball more. This may seem hard and you may miscue more at first, but if your action is good you can achieve this. It helps the white leave the tip more cleanly and stops ball bounce. This exercise also helps with your timing.
Fun Stuff

Place two balls touching over each pocket 3 inches away from the bag. Make sure they are dead in line like a plant or a set. Now you can place the white where you like. See how many shots you can sink all twelve balls in.

You will find it is much harder than it looks. The trick is to use screw back when you hit the ball and try to be quite straight. The screw will often make both balls drop at the same time. This can be used as a challenge to a friend and is a good way to earn a few bucks.

Some of you wrote me and said you enjoyed the exercise of clearing the colours. Well, here is a variation:

Place the colours on the spots and pot yellow, black, green, black, brown, black and so on, ending with black, black, then start again.

This exercise is very hard and is a very good way of practicing going up and down the table without getting bored.

Please remember that these tips will not work for everyone. Some players have very unorthodox styles, some just may be different. Mind you, do not be put off just because something feels uncomfortable. Give everything a good try before you decide that it does not work for you.

Lesson #3
Potting
For Beginners

So, after my first two lessons you can stand right and hit the ball straight. All you have to do now is pot balls! Knowing how to pot a ball is something you either have or you do not have. Of course practice can help but you really need an eye for it. When walking to the table after your opponent has missed it seems he has left you an easy pot on a straight red followed by an easier black. You get down and miss the red! How frustrating. I have done this so many times and so do many people.

There are some things you can do to correct this problem. When walking to the table always walk in to the shot, never approach the table and then slide round to the shot. This is so you see the real angle of the shot. Also when you are playing position for the next ball remember that although it is important to get position, the worst position you can end up in is in your chair, watching your opponent! Work out the angle for the pot decide your position, but the last thing you think of is pot pot pot. That is to say that if you at least pot the ball and run out of position you can still play safe. When playing snooker for the first time do not try to go all out to beat an opponent. Try out different things, even if you try things in practice they still end up different in a match.

Playing snooker is all in the head. If you are confident then you play better. Be positive, make your mind up what shot and play it 110%. A question I am asked many times is what ball do you look at when you strike the white. The answer is always the object ball. This is always for every player. You do not look at the white or the end of your tip, just the cue ball. In fact if you look at Hendry if he is trying to pot a vital ball, he will often watch the ball until it reaches the pocket. This also helps him stay down on the shot. Mind you though, Hendry is one of a few players who, although he looks at the object ball last, watch his eyes when he is cueing up. He keeps looking at the object pocket as well.

As a routine for this lesson place a Red about two feet from one of the black holes, leaving the black on its spot. Then try to pot the red and vary the shot between making it back to baulk and staying for the black. This shot is one of the most common you will come across. Especially after a player has broken off. To be good at snooker you must play shots like this in practice time after time. Another routine is to see how many times you can pot the black without missing and without moving the white between shots.
Advanced

Being good at snooker is a real pleasure. After all you practice hard, you reach a good standard and the game is so enjoyable. However, so many good players I have seen over the years always practice on the same table week in week out, day after day. They used to call this onetableitis years ago. These players, who never play on a different table, often try to play in tournaments around the country and find it very hard to win. It is vital to play on different tables. Of course it is good to play a lot on one table because it can give you confidence but you must get used to playing on all types of tables and conditions.

Players often write to me saying they have reached the 70-80 standard and do not seem to be getting any better no matter how hard they practice. This is very common because at this stage any improvement is a little at a time and to be honest there are many who give up at this stage. To be a champion is not just about talent, it is about dedication and determination. If they get through these times and succeed in making their first century, many players feel they have made it. Wrong! I have seen many players who can make centuries who do not win anything, it is consistency which wins. If you make Eighty break after Eighty break you can be a winner. Last season Mark King reached a world final losing to Hendry. Up to then he had only scored one century break in the later stages of a tournament which was 102. This season he is ranked No 20. You see some people are obsessed with making centuries. It is winning which counts. Of course some players get to the point of making Eighty breaks and go no further no matter how hard they work, and of course this is because of ability. You either have it or you do not.

If you compete in tournaments you should be taking them very seriously. For instance if you are playing on the weekend at a club in another area, make sure you prepare yourself. Phone the club and see if you can practice before you play, if not, if it is possible travel down the day before and practice then, as most clubs will allow this. The night before your first match go to bed early unless you are playing late, then go to be later and get up later. Do not get up with hardly any time before you play. Give yourself plenty of time to wake up or you will be waking up to a nightmare. Do not eat a big meal before a match as this will sap your energy. Treat any match big or small in all tournaments with the same importance, you are either a winner or you are not.

As a routine this week try to place yourself in a position with say eight reds left on the table and all the colours on their spots. Then try to see how high a break you can make without touching a cushion. Then vary the exercise to only hitting plain ball but hitting cushions. Then try using no cushions and only plain ball! These exercises may seem pointless but they serve the purpose of using angles. Without the knowledge of angles you will never win. Did you know that John Spencer was a snooker genius when he was a teenager but had not made a century. Then someone (I forget who) taught him to play billiards. The rest is history as they say.

The striker's turn at the table continues when a ball potted legally, until he either fails to legally pot a ball or wins the frame.

Rules of Play

After the first red ball has been potted, the next legal object ball would be color, and so on. As long as reds remain on the table he must alternate his play between reds and colors (though within each group he may play a ball of his choice). It is not necessary to cause the cue ball or an object ball to contact a cushion or drop in a pocket after the cue ball has contacted a legal object ball. Failure to contact a legal object ball first is a foul.

Potting the red when there are still reds on the table:
The incoming striker (the player taking his first stroke of an inning) always has a red as his legal object ball.
Potting the color when there are still reds:
The striker who's legal object ball is color must:
a) designate a specific color ball as his object ball
b) cause the cue ball to make the first contact with that specific colored ball.

Failure in meeting these requirements is a foul.

While reds remain on the table, each potted color is spotted prior to the next stroke (see Spotting Balls below for spotting rules).

The Cue

Owning and playing with your own cue is essential if you are hoping to progress and develop your ability at snooker. The cue is the most important element in your game and should be chosen carefully to suit your own needs and requirements.

This may seem like common sense, but it is surprising how many people choose to play with a variety of cues and are then confused as to why they fail to improve. I have known decent amateur players with numerous cues, swopping and changing as the mood takes them, often to the detriment of their overall game.All cues play differently and it takes a while to familiarise yourself completely with your chosen cue. Only regular practice with the same cue will provide the repetition necessary for you to become completely at one with your snooker cue.The normal length of a cue is in the region of 58 inches, with the best cues made from ash or maple. Ash cues tend to have a heavier grain, which is more visible than maple. This grain can assist your sighting when cueing down on the shot and enables you to hold the cue in the same position for each shot. Maple cues have a more subdued grain.The recommended weight is around 17 ounces and the cue should feel balanced, particularly in the shaft. Weight is often inserted into the butt of the cue approximately 12 to 18 inches from the base, which is why the shaft often feels heavy.Tip sizes vary, but the standard size is 10mm. Some play with a 9millimetre tip and others with an 11mm, but for players new to the game a larger tip size is recommended. A ferrule should be attached to the end of the cue, which the tip attaches to. The ferrule prevents the end of the cue from splitting and protects the cue when replacing a tip.Caring for your cue is vital because of its importance to your game. In addition a cue may last for years if properly looked after.

Avoid leaving your cue in extreme temperatures, both hot and cold. Keep the cue clean with a damp cloth and wash your hands before you play. Never stand the cue up against a wall, as eventually this may cause it to warp.